Central Sinai, Egypt: November 2003

Departing Cairo at what would seem a decadently late time (compared with our start time for Mount Sinai), our minibus sped towards Suez. Just before descending into the Ahmad Hamdi tunnel, it is possible to see huge ferries moving slowly along the Suez canal in the distance, in what seems an impossibly narrow space.

Driving alongside the Gulf of Suez for a while, the minibus makes its way inland to central Sinai, through huge expanses of beautiful, ever changing deserts (LEFT).

LEFT We make a brief stop to appreciate an oasis.

RIGHT At the oasis, Shelley (from Australia), Birgit (Canada), Norm (Canada), me, Kathy (Canada), and Gisela (Canada)

Having arrived at our hostel, we find out we have a 2.00am start the next day in order to climb Mount Sinai in time for sunrise. Aaaaaargh! We have a choice to either party until we have to leave, or attempt to catch a few hours of sleep... we take the soft option.

It's 2.30am, it's pitch dark, but the skies are brilliant with stars. However we don't have time to appreciate them, and certainly not while trying to stumble our way over to St Catherine's Monastery to begin our hike. We attempt to make a head start over the hordes of other groups surrounding the monastery, but struggle to find the beginning of the camel path up the mountain. Admitting defeat, our tour leader Wesley tells us to follow the crowds instead!

Shelley and I just manage to keep up with Kathy's breakneck pace up the winding path, jostling past other 'pilgrims', and veering out of the way of oncoming camels, led by persistent Bedouin tribesmen bartering for camel rides (though actually they were all running a monopoly together). However, looking back at the path below, it's quite an awe inspiring sight to see the long, continuous trail of torchlights following from behind, stretching as far as the eye can see.

Reaching the top of the mountain some time after 5am, we scramble around the rocks to find a good location to sit. Having made ourselves comfortable, Shelley suddenly points out we don't know which way is East. Thankfully there are many Bedouin people about, hiring out blankets and mattresses, so she asks one where the sun will rise. Finding out we were facing the wrong direction, we scamble about on the rocks again. Finding a convenient location, we shift uncomfortably in the freezing cold for the next hour, wondering what on earth possessed Moses to ever come up this mountain in the first place. We're also beginning to wonder ourselves why we're there... it's certainly not for the 10 commandments!

ABOVE Kathy, me and Shelley, freezing as the sun rises.

LEFT 6.15am, and the sun begins to emerge over the mountains.

BELOW LEFT Me on the summit of Mount Sinai, gazing over a breathtaking view of the mountains after the sun has risen.


ABOVE Hordes of people start to descend the mountain. Our tour guide, Muhammed, reckons there were 5,000 people at the summit that morning...

ABOVE LEFT Me, overlooking surrounding mountains.

RIGHT Kathy and me.

LEFT One of many camels to find fewer takers for a ride back down the mountain.

 


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